The debate is on, with implications as far-reaching as the lusts and desires of your expectant tastebuds.
Just as an exquisite meal satisfies the soul and nourishes the body, the standards by which we ‘create’ food can impact our society. Which food ethic is more nourishing and beneficial to a community and even to the planet as a whole? Should we continue to indulge in the vast array of culinary choice, delighting in the foods of the world? Or should we adopt a more local approach and embrace a form of culinary xenophobia?
Arguments for both sides are persuasive. In the end, though, the flavor that should accent every dish is, balance.
Locavores, or proponents for eating local food, correctly claim that such a trend benefits the local economy by supporting businesses and farmers within a certain area. The movement also positively impacts the environment in that less transporting of food means less greenhouse gas emissions. Last, but not least, is the argument that local food is fresher and ‘in-season’, bringing a heightened taste experience to the table.
Others believe ‘food’ to be a cultural experience, as much an exploration of the multicultural society we are connected with as a revelation of flavors.
The world has become a very small place thanks to modern technology. It’s now possible to sustain summer’s bounty all year long, importing whatever a chef might desire to round out the menu.
But, according to history, change has always been a part of local cuisine. Dishes we now deem traditional to a certain country include ingredients that did not originate in that region, such as tomatoes and basil in Italian food, or peanuts in Thai food. Yet, after being introduced to a community at some point in history, certain flavors become synonymous with a region or people.
That’s why some culinary experts support a ‘broadening of tastes’, creating a fusion of flavors in which culinary art emerges from the melting pot of food culture.
Chef Peter Gordon, author of the book Fusion: A Culinary Journey, is one such proponent. Seeing the potential for culinary success by embracing the amazing cuisines of other countries, Gordon even points out that the carbon footprint of some imported foods could be lower than their homegrown counterparts because of having ideal growing conditions, such as more sunshine, in a foreign growing location. Balance is key, though. There are a few ingredients he refuses to buy ‘out-of-season’ as the locally grown crop provides superior quality.
Jamie Kennedy is a chef based in Southern Ontario and is an advocate of local cuisine. Again, while ethics, environmentalism, and community, the cornerstones of the local food movement, all factor into his stance, so does balance. He says it’s important not to be dogmatic, but rather, to celebrate what’s possible locally.
An abundance of varieties of food can be grown locally and thus should find their way into kitchens within that 100km local range. While still enjoying fair-trade tastes from abroad (who wants to give up coffee or tea?) Kennedy finds that, far from being restrictive, concentrating on regional tastes gives him inspiration to focus on a plethora of local options and to become ‘known for something’.
In all fairness, the world has a lot to offer. So do local gardens and farmers markets. By serving up balance, both ideologies can co-exist in harmony on the platter of culinary delights, complimenting each other the way a little ethnic spice from a distant land spruces up those homegrown potatoes.
